2.16.2010

Quick Bites.

Updating actual recipes, while helpful, is beginning to drain on my time. I take lots of photos and never post them because I don't want to write out a recipe. Sooo, When I'm short on time I'm going to post photos and if anyone would like to actually make the item, then I'll gladly write up the recipe. Without further adieu, feast your eyes on this:

 
Salad Nicoise and pinot noir - aka the perfect evening.

 
This isn't your average salad: Seared ahi tuna (I'm sorry tuna, I know you're over fished but I only buy you once in a blue moon), roasted fingerlings soaked in vinaigrette,  kalamata olives, slow poached egg, blanched sugar snap peas, sundried tomatoes, and SECRETS of life. You can't have them.


 
Pizza Margherita, because life is not complete without cheesy carbs.
And a little something for dessert? I've been on a chocolate + berry kick lately so I hope you like valrhona and raspberries:




French Silk pie


 
Chocolate Mousse

 
 
Mmm... creamy. Bailey's (and Kahlua).
 


And just to shake things up a little, strawberries mascerated in balsamic, turbinado sugar, and black pepper.

Ye Ol’Tot.

You know, when I said butternut squash was encroaching on tater’s territory, I was just joshin’. I mean really, there can only be one supreme ruler of my vegetable world, and that distinction remains firmly in the potato’s starchy grasp. I think its humble elegance is what grabs me. So rarely does the potato shine as the entrée. French fries, for example, are an everyday food, almost ignored and usually relegated to the label “side dish”. It is pushed aside by so many, yet still beloved and worthy of center plate. However, all one needs to do is change the label to “pomme frite” (or for that matter, add any French word like Dauphinois, puree, Lyonnaise, etc.) and it is elevated to haute cuisine. People will ooh and ahh and fall all over themselves to tell you about their Belgian experience with the perfect fry. They’re memorable, and your homemade pomme frite will be just as good.

In pursuit of the perfect French fry you endure a few more steps than you’re used to. Step one, turn your back on the freezer isle. I know frozen fries are easy, and there are good brands out there, but none of them will ever be as good as a home cut, freshly fried potato.

The Potato

Buy russet potatoes, the humblest potato of them all. Those little fingerlings are too waxy, and as delicious as Yukon golds are, they face the same waxy fate. You want something super starchy and fluffy – the starchiest and fluffiest out there is the Idaho russet.

Now slice the potato in finger size batons at least an hour in advance, peel the potato if you wish, but the peel won’t hurt the result or you (yay for nutrients!). Leave the batons in cold water to cover until you’re ready to fry them. This will wash away the excess starch on the outside that could hinder the browning and general deliciousness. But beware, water and hot shimmering oil do not mix. Dry them off thoroughly with a towel and/or salad spinner before depositing in the oil.

The Oil

Use a light oil like peanut, vegetable, or canola. Peanut tastes the best in frying, but can be a bit pricer than the others. I confess to using canola most of the time. It’s heart healthy, cheap, and has a high smoke point. You MUST have a thermometer that can withstand temperatures of at least 400F. I like the digital thermometers that you can set to a certain goal temperature. That way you can set it, leave it in the oil, and it will beep when the oil is at the correct temperature. Just be sure to not let the thermometer touch the bottom/sides for accurate readings.

The Method

Pour the oil into a deep, heavy pot large enough so that it comes no more than halfway up its sides, and heat to 320˚F, or until a potato stick dropped into the oil sinks to the bottom of the pot and then rises to the surface (I usually heat the oil to 330F initially so the temperature will recover to 320F faster). Add a handful of the potatoes and fry for about 10 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. If the potatoes start to brown, reduce the heat slightly. Using a spider or skimmer, remove the potatoes from the oil and put them on a sheet pan/plate (not paper towels or it will stick), Continue to fry the remaining potatoes in batches.

Increase the temperature of the oil to 365˚F. Add a handful of the potatoes and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Using a spider or skimmer, transfer the potatoes to paper towels to drain briefly. Continue to fry the remaining potatoes in batches and allow the temperature to recover after each batch. Sprinkle with salt/toppings and serve immediately. If you want to keep them warm and crispy, you can do so in a 225F oven for about 15 minutes before they get soggy.

Topping Ideas

I made two kinds of fries:


Truffle salt, grated white Oregon truffles, and black pepper


Parmigiano Reggiano, kosher salt, and parsley

Here are other serving ideas:
  • Smoked paprika and lemon zest
  • Fresh thyme, gruyere cheese sauce (make a béchamel and slowly melt gruyere + Dijon mustard into it), sliced French madrange ham, and minced shallot broiled for a take on the famous Croque Madame sandwich
  • Toss with a compound herb butter
  • Serve with garlic confit aioli (see future posts)
  • Toss with harissa, or make harissa aioli/ketchup
  • Serve with bagna cauda (anchovy sauce)
  • Make a classic Ranch dressing at home to serve on the side: Mix together: 1/2 cup mayonnaise + 1/2 cup sour cream + 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar + 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill + 1 teaspoon granulated garlic or 1 clove finely chopped garlic + kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper, flavors will mature and be even better later but it’s fine to eat it right away

My grade: B+ (based on Robert's assessment, I would give an A, but I'm biased with potatoes)
Recipe grade: A- (you will have to figure out how dark the fries should be for your tastes)
Diagnosis: Good, but I wish this method worked for sweet potatoes too.

    2.07.2010

    Irish Soda Bread

    I have so much love for Ina Garden. She was a huge reason I started cooking and has inspired a bulk of my dishes. She entertains guests with such an easy going elegance that is nearly impossible to copy, though I try. Her recipes are generally fool proof, though her idea of "ethnic" is pretty laughable. I think ethnic for her is Irish, and her Irish Soda bread is passable. It's not bad, especially if you have no preconceptions of what Irish Soda Bread should be. It's basically an overgrown scone minus most of the butter. Soda bread's crumbly texture and mild sweetness make it the perfect breakfast/tea accompaniment/snack. Serve warm with softened butter and preserves and get ready to carb load - you won't be able to stop.



    My favorite Soda Bread recipes involve whole wheat flour, brown sugar/honey and turbinado sugar jeweled on the top. Ina's is made completely of white flour, contains only white sugar and no raw sugar sprinkles. It does have a bit of orange zest which is a nice non-traditional touch. Though I like other recipes better, Ina's is by far one of the easiest out there. If you're a novice to bread baking, or baking in general, try this recipe out. It's idiot proof and very impressive.
    • 4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for currants
    • 4 tablespoons sugar
    • 1 teaspoon baking soda
    • 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
    • 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice
    • 1 3/4 cups cold buttermilk, shaken
    • 1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten
    • 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
    • 1 cup dried currants

    Directions

    Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.
    Combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the butter is mixed into the flour.
    With a fork, lightly beat the buttermilk, egg, and orange zest together in a measuring cup. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture. Combine the currants with 1 tablespoon of flour and mix into the dough. It will be very wet (she isn't kidding, it looks like thick pancake batter).
    Dump the dough onto a [very] well-floured board and knead it a few times into a round loaf. Place the loaf on the prepared sheet pan and lightly cut an X into the top of the bread with a serrated knife. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. When you tap the loaf, it will have a hollow sound.
    Cool on a baking rack. Serve warm or at room temperature in big slices.


    My grade: A-, I guess I could've waited a bit longer to cut into the loaf, but it smelled too good
    Recipe grade: B-, good recipe as far as clarity, but not the best Irish Soda Bread I've had.
    Diagnosis: Definitely worth trying, but if you think you'd prefer the whole wheat kind let me know and I will post the recipe.

    2.06.2010

    Kim Chee Jigae

    I've noticed a sudden and unexpected influx in interest in Korean food over the past year. The Korean taco trucks in LA, the multiple references to gojugang on tastespotting, the [well deserved] popularity of Momofuku, random people I meet at school telling me their favorite food is Korean BBQ (bulgogi/kalbi, post coming soon)... these are things that never would've happened five years ago. To keep you all abreast of the latest food trend, I will try to post as many Korean recipes as possible, especially easy ones because I know you guys aren't about to run out to buy 20 extra ingredients you'll never use again.

    However, if you think you're ready to experience the delicious world of Korean food (and out snob people with your foodieness), then here's my list of the 12 must have Korean ingredients. With these you can make just about anything:
    1. Sesame oil: The dark kind, not that wimpy light variety, is the base flavor of almost every Korean vegetable. Korean's refer to sesame oil as the "true" or "good" oil. Needless to say, they love the stuff, and so will you. Drizzle it over any vegetable with a little salt and hot pepper and you've got yourself a side dish (banchan, we'll get to that later)
    2. Kim chee: if you don't like the sound of fermented, spicy, pickled cabbage, just try it once, you might surprise yourself. Honestly, I am surprised everytime I feed a newbie Kim chee and they love it. It's not what you'd consider a delicate flavor. Actually, it's like a cricket ball to the face in terms of flavor impact. Not for those who don't like salt, garlic or spice. It's not very spicy to me, but I guess I'm used to it? Children often wash their kim chee off in a bowl of water until they grow a taste for spice. If you can't handle the spice, you can also try white kim chee which is typically made with asian pear and no chili pepper (kochu). The spicy cucumber and daikon varieties are also very tasty.
    3. Tofu: As my mother would say "it MUST be Korean tofu". I do prefer the Korean brands, but I don't think it would be as ruinous as my mother does to use some other kind of tofu in a pinch. Sliced cold silken tofu drizzled with soy sauce, sesame oil, siracha, and furikake/sesame seeds is a really delicious, light and summery dish - plus, it's a no-brainer preparation wise.
    4. Dried Anchovies: (see picture below) I know they look weird and have a pungent smell... but they're really good. Some of the most delicious foods in the world are derived from dried fish. You know that miso soup (future post) you love so much? It's made with konbu and bonito, dried and shaved fish. They last forever, obviously due to the preservation method, and only need to be used sparingly. Buy the larger silver ones (as opposed to the small, blue ones)
    5. Gojujang: I'm not really sure if this is how you spell it, but it's a Korean chili paste. It's fermented and quite saltly. It's a must-have condiment in the Korean kitchen.
    6. Soy Sauce: if you don't already have this in your pantry then you're a noob. Get out.
    7. Rice: the subsistence of the people. Koreans like short grain rices that stick together when cooked. Unlike horrible enriched, boil in a bag rice, this is able to be eaten with chopsticks because it stays in pick-upable clumps (my wordings are excellent). It has come to my attention that many people cower in the face of rice cookery. I've been cooking rice since I was a wee tot so it surprises me that people don't know how to cook it. I'm going to have a post about rice cooking sometime in the future when I figure out how to put my method into words, since I don't use measurements and usually go on instinct.
    8. Mirin: sweet cooking wine most associated with Japan. It is very nearly 50% sugar, but does have some flavor beyond sweet. Note, most rice vinegars that are seasoned also face the same diabetic adverse fate.
    9. Rice vinegar: I buy mine from the Korean store, which you will obviously be frequenting if you are picking up any number of the above ingredients. Might as well get some of this while you're at it. And in case you're wondering how to distinguish the korean brands, look for the script with "o"'s in the characters.
    10. Fresh Ginger: No replacement, don't try to shake that bottle of ground or jarred pre-chopped at me. Get a knob a ginger, scrape the skin of with a spoon so you don't waste half of it trying to peel it with a knife, grate on a micro plane, chop finely, or slice.
    11. Scallions/Green Onions: scallions are a pervasive flavoring, like it or get used to picking them out of everything. My mother hates scallions and grew up very very skinny because of it.
    12. Garlic: you will smell like garlic after a good Korean meal. You will like it, and so will your date.

    Most recipes take a few other fresh ingredients (like zuchinnis or beef, etc) but I wanted to start out with a recipe that requires only these ingredients. If your kim chee is super sour, you may want/need a pinch of sugar, but other than that and water, you're set to make a nice big pot of Kim chee soup.

    Ingredients:
    • 3 cups kim chee minimum, if you have more, throw it in. It won't hurt it, just adjust the amount of water accordingly. Also, if you bought the whole cabbage kind, chop it up into more manageable pieces.
    • Enough water to cover the kim chee
    • 1 block medium soft silken tofu, rised and cut into 1 1/2" cubes
    • 2-3 dried anchovies, start with one or two and work your way up. They're really strong so it's personal preference kind of thing.
    • 1 T sugar (optional)
    • 1/2 package enoki mushrooms (optional)
    • 1 T sesame seeds (optional)
     




    Frankenfish
     
    Place the kim chee, anchovies, sesame seeds, and enough water to cover all of the ingredients in a medium pot on high heat. You don't want too much water because the kim chee gives off a lot of liquid when cooked, so just barely cover everything with water. Bring to a boil and then down to a simmer. Cook for 20 minutes or until the kim chee becomes translucent and soft. Taste for sourness and add sugar as necessary.

     
    I have a strange sense of humor.

    Add the tofu near the end of the cooking time so it won't disintegrate. If you have it, now's the time to add enoki mushrooms. I know I said I hate mushrooms, and I do, truly I do, but these are different. I like them because they don't have the same texture or taste as mushrooms - essentially I don't think of them as mushrooms. I do find the way they are sold to be a little off putting though:


    See that at the bottom? That's it own little clod of dirt/manure/I don't even know what. Obviously cut that part off and wash the 'shrooms off. I know you don't think mushrooms should ever be submerged in water, but dear god it was just trapped in a tight fitting plastic package with animal feces for a prolonged period of time! (Ok, it might not be dung, but it look suspiciously poo like). Anyway, add them if you dare, then cook another 5-10 minutes. The soup may or may not get low on water, if it does, just add a little more. No big.

    Garnish with sesame seeds and serve it in the pot with rice on the side. Koreans like to eat things when they're burn your mouth hot and thus often eat things right out of the pot. I always did as a youngin and to this day it feels weird to eat soup out of a proper bowl.



    My grade: B+, though I like the enoki mushrooms, I have to be in the mood for them and today I just wasn't

    Recipe grade: B-, The amount of water, sugar and anchovies is really a preferential taste thing. As much as I would like to give you all exact amounts, I can't... you just have to try it out and decide what you like.

    Diagnosis: If you like kim chee but have never cooked with it, this is the easiest way to acclimate yourself to its unique taste and texture. If you've never had Korean food before, try the Korean BBQ with all the banchan first, then work your way up to this.


    Note this is an extremely simplified version. My mom makes it this way often, but you can also make kim chee soup that requires 15 ingredients, an hour of cooking time, and a Korean accent. There are two kinds of kim chee soup, the kind with the fish stock or the kind with pork/meat. I like both, but the fish kind takes less time and forethought.

    2.02.2010

    Adieu, cruel world.

    I am a busy girl. I am always working, working, working... you'd think this would put me ahead of the curve, no? NO. ABS-O-FREAKING-LUTELY-NOT (put that on your scrabble board and score it!). I'm always behind, like how I'm behind on blogging. I'm not even on time with my relaxation.

    So sorry, my dearest darling 2 readers... I can only offer you pictures of things to come. Soon I will have a bit of time to eat/sleep/write recipes, but for now those activities are mere figments of my caffiene addled brain. To the photos!


    Roasted Beet Salad with horseradish chive goat cheese


    The easiest possible Kim Chee Jigae

    The World's simplest, most pillowy ravioli stuffed with chicken, ricotta, artichokes, and arugula pesto


    Note: I am entirely too dramatic. Life is pretty good if I'm eating as well as the pictures indicate.

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