Foodie: +/- snob.

Food admiration takes people down many paths. Some love all food, regardless of origin, and end up with flabby memories of their love. Some take the Anton Ego "I only swallow food if my overly refined palatte accepts it as gourmet" route. Still others bury themselves waste deep in manure to grow their own produce. Then, there's the "foodie".

Foodies are a rare yet easily distinguishable breed. They are easily spotted traveling in droves to the latest molecular gastronomy eatery. They speak of big abstract food ideas, like land conservation and anything Michael Pollan has written about, but generally never recycle or implement any of their ideas unless convenient. No matter what you say, they will always one up you. Say you bought some Oregon white Truffles, they will tell you about their trip to Abruzzo to forage for truffles with a local hunter. Say you got some jamon iberico, they will detail the specs of the new meat curing locker they've specially ordered to make their own cured meats. It pains me to talk to people who label themselves "foodies". Friends often stick me with this label - I hate it. I appreciate food. I love learning about food and all its aspects. However, I HATE the food snobbery that so often accompanies food appreciation. My whole life, i.e. law school, is built around competition. Cooking and food are my hobbies - for christ's sake don't make them a competition too.

Just a little quibble I have. Food should be about happiness and community, not exclusiveness. It's not that I don't enjoy the finer things in life - I indulge a bit too often actually - but I want food to be a positive aspect of people's lives. Ya shouldn't feel uneasy about food.

Speaking of food, I've made quite a lot since my last post. My schedule's a little nuts though so all I have are pictures for you. Recipes maybe possibly hopefully coming soon...

Remember that delicious Lamb Shank? Here's its reincarnation - shred up the meat and heat with the braising liquid, boil some pappardelle to just under al dente, cook the pasta until al dente in the lamb/sauce, grate over pecorino and sprinkle with herbs (parsley or fresh mint)

 I love poppy seeds. Hopefully none of my job prospects give me a pee test because they will think I am a serious heroin addict. I ate this entire batch (12) of lemon poppy seed muffins in 4 days. I'm a winner.

I'm always straining to make tasty, quick breakfasts for myself. Most mornings I'm too clumsy and late to make anything worthwhile so I tend to make lots of meals on the weekend. These mini vegetable fritattas keep very well in the fridge. Eat them cold, hot, or wrapped up in a tortilla with salsa.

While making said fritattas I was truly disturbed by my carton of eggs. Each and every egg of the dozen had double yolks. The fritattas were extra rich and every bite made me uneasy and suspicious of whatever hormones I was ingesting (hormone free, free range my ass).

 Vietnamese Chicken Salad - Chargrilled lemon grass marinated chicken thighs with nuc mam sauce

Chickpeas

Who’s shucked a fresh chickpea? Who’s eaten one? I’d venture to guess no one, and I’m kind of baffled as to why; they’re delicious! Someone from the chickpea marketing team really slipped up in not promoting them as a fresh vegetable. I just had my first (of many, hopefully) fresh chickpea experiences this past weekend. They come in a little green jacket, like an English Pea, which is peeled away to reveal one (sometimes two, if you’re lucky) bright green chickpeas.

Apparently they come in both a green and white varietal, but the green is the easiest to find fresh. Though they look like peas, it is in fact a legume. In their fresh state chickpeas don’t take much in the way of preparation and actually don’t taste half bad raw. Lightly steam them and drizzle with a touch of sea salt and super fruity olive oil and you’ve got an interesting and easy side dish.

My Grade: A
Recipe Grade: A, it's not even a recipe really.
Diagnosis: MUST try.

Christine had a little lamb...

I have a slight obsession with lamb. Whenever there’s an occasion to celebrate or some excuse for an ornate meal, I turn to lamb. Whether it’s shanks, rack, loin, shoulder, leg… I love it all! I think my love of lamb has stunted my culinary growth a bit though. When faced with the choice of the choicest meats, I can’t help myself. Why would I make a three-bone prime rib roast for $100 when I can make rack of lamb for 8 for $60? Serving lamb reaps a level of impressiveness that plain ol’ filet mignon will never attain.  Plus, it objectively tastes better. Because my taste is the true measure of good taste, obviously.

Pomegranate Braised Lamb Shanks

So here is my latest rendition of braised lamb shanks. I think I’ve made braised lamb shanks more than any other meat dish. In Ad Hoc, Thomas Keller expounds on the virtues of perfecting a recipe through repetition. If you make a dish over and over, you know the ins and outs of the ingredients and can actually tweek it rather than wholly categorizing the recipe as good or bad then moving on. I have to say, this is one of the first complex recipes I've ever developed by repetition. Diners always rave about it, even my ex-roomie who is generally a vegetarian will eat it. Though it takes 3 hours, it’s not a difficult dish to make. If you have a big pot and some time, you can do it.

3-4 large lamb shanks
2 stalks of celery
2 carrots
1 small onion
3 cloves of garlic confit (regular fresh garlic would be okay, but maybe just 2 cloves)
S & P
1 bay leaf
3 T flour
2 T olive oil
½ bottle of dry red wine
2 T Pomegranate Molasses
3 c chicken broth
1 small can of tomatoes (San Marzano, please)

Season and sear the shanks on all sides in a large heavy pot (like a le Creuset). It will take at least 5 minutes on each side on medium heat to appropriately brown each side. Meanwhile, clean all vegetables and cut into roughly 3” pieces (just to make it easier to blend). Process in a food processor with the flour until finely minced (almost to the point of baby food, but still confetti like).

 

Remove the shanks from the pot and sauté the processed flour and vegetables until lightly browned. Deglaze with the wine, add the stock, bay leaf, tomatoes, pomegranate molasses, and seared shanks. Season with salt and pepper (but not too too much because the sauce will reduce down). Bring to a simmer, cover, and stash in your oven at 225F for three (3!) hours, turning and basting it at least every hour.

At the end of the cook time, either remove the shanks from the pot if you dare (because they will crumble into a tender mass of meaty perfection at the slightest touch of your tongs) or take the lid off and simmer on the stove until the liquid has reduced by half. You may want to baste the shanks often to ensure maximum moistness.

Serve with only a fork and you will be very happy. Serve with baba ghanoush and fresh chickpeas doused in your finest olive oil, and you will be unnaturally happy – the kind of happy that usually only comes in pill form.

Recipe Grade: A
My Grade: A+ (my first!)
Diagnosis: Good for special occasions.

Baba Ghanoush

For some reason, Baba Ghanoush is often overlooked and hummus reigns supreme in Western refrigerators. Baba Ghanoush is a smoky, savory mix of eggplant and tahini that I generally prefer over hummus. Most hummus you get in America is a) cold b) flavorless and c) from a hermetically sealed package. If the hummus has just been made (i.e. hot because you actually boiled the chickpeas yourself) with good tahina (I “imported” mine while on a trip to Israel) and extremely smooth, then I love the stuff. Otherwise, save yourself a night of soaking chickpeas, an hour of boiling the beans, and 10 minutes of your poor food processor’s motor, and instead make Baba Ghanoush. You can make it in a bowl with a fork/masher if you want to, or you can be lazy and put it in the food processor.

Baba Ghanoush

1 medium/large eggplant
2T tahina
½ large lemon
1T parsley
1T olive oil

Prick the eggplant with a fork all over its exterior. If you have a gas stove, turn it on to medium high heat and roast the eggplant over the flame for 3-5 minutes. I roast it for longer, but I like really smoky things which most people do not. If you don’t have a gas stove, put the eggplant under your broiler and turn it occasionally. Afterward, put the charred eggplant on a baking sheet and bake in the oven for 40-50 minutes at 400F. Do not (NOT!) cut the eggplant’s stem off at any point before or during the baking process. After the eggplant is completely soft, remove its stem and skin and process it with the other ingredients. Some people like it to be really smooth, some like it chunkier. I personally like it fairly smooth, but still with some mouth feel.

My Grade: B, I really like the smokiness but 10 minutes on an open flame is too much for most people
Recipe grade: A-, it's too simple to mess up
Diagnosis: if you like hummus but are a little bored by it, try baba ghanoush.

Quick Bites.

Updating actual recipes, while helpful, is beginning to drain on my time. I take lots of photos and never post them because I don't want to write out a recipe. Sooo, When I'm short on time I'm going to post photos and if anyone would like to actually make the item, then I'll gladly write up the recipe. Without further adieu, feast your eyes on this:

 

Salad Nicoise and pinot noir - aka the perfect evening.

 

This isn't your average salad: Seared ahi tuna (I'm sorry tuna, I know you're over fished but I only buy you once in a blue moon), roasted fingerlings soaked in vinaigrette,  kalamata olives, slow poached egg, blanched sugar snap peas, sundried tomatoes, and SECRETS of life. You can't have them.

 

Pizza Margherita, because life is not complete without cheesy carbs.

And a little something for dessert? I've been on a chocolate + berry kick lately so I hope you like valrhona and raspberries:

French Silk pie

 

Chocolate Mousse

 

 

Mmm... creamy. Bailey's (and Kahlua).

 

And just to shake things up a little, strawberries mascerated in balsamic, turbinado sugar, and black pepper.

Ye Ol’Tot.

You know, when I said butternut squash was encroaching on tater’s territory, I was just joshin’. I mean really, there can only be one supreme ruler of my vegetable world, and that distinction remains firmly in the potato’s starchy grasp. I think its humble elegance is what grabs me. So rarely does the potato shine as the entrée. French fries, for example, are an everyday food, almost ignored and usually relegated to the label “side dish”. It is pushed aside by so many, yet still beloved and worthy of center plate. However, all one needs to do is change the label to “pomme frite” (or for that matter, add any French word like Dauphinois, puree, Lyonnaise, etc.) and it is elevated to haute cuisine. People will ooh and ahh and fall all over themselves to tell you about their Belgian experience with the perfect fry. They’re memorable, and your homemade pomme frite will be just as good.

In pursuit of the perfect French fry you endure a few more steps than you’re used to. Step one, turn your back on the freezer isle. I know frozen fries are easy, and there are good brands out there, but none of them will ever be as good as a home cut, freshly fried potato.

The Potato

Buy russet potatoes, the humblest potato of them all. Those little fingerlings are too waxy, and as delicious as Yukon golds are, they face the same waxy fate. You want something super starchy and fluffy – the starchiest and fluffiest out there is the Idaho russet.

Now slice the potato in finger size batons at least an hour in advance, peel the potato if you wish, but the peel won’t hurt the result or you (yay for nutrients!). Leave the batons in cold water to cover until you’re ready to fry them. This will wash away the excess starch on the outside that could hinder the browning and general deliciousness. But beware, water and hot shimmering oil do not mix. Dry them off thoroughly with a towel and/or salad spinner before depositing in the oil.

The Oil

Use a light oil like peanut, vegetable, or canola. Peanut tastes the best in frying, but can be a bit pricer than the others. I confess to using canola most of the time. It’s heart healthy, cheap, and has a high smoke point. You MUST have a thermometer that can withstand temperatures of at least 400F. I like the digital thermometers that you can set to a certain goal temperature. That way you can set it, leave it in the oil, and it will beep when the oil is at the correct temperature. Just be sure to not let the thermometer touch the bottom/sides for accurate readings.

The Method

Pour the oil into a deep, heavy pot large enough so that it comes no more than halfway up its sides, and heat to 320˚F, or until a potato stick dropped into the oil sinks to the bottom of the pot and then rises to the surface (I usually heat the oil to 330F initially so the temperature will recover to 320F faster). Add a handful of the potatoes and fry for about 10 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. If the potatoes start to brown, reduce the heat slightly. Using a spider or skimmer, remove the potatoes from the oil and put them on a sheet pan/plate (not paper towels or it will stick), Continue to fry the remaining potatoes in batches.

Increase the temperature of the oil to 365˚F. Add a handful of the potatoes and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Using a spider or skimmer, transfer the potatoes to paper towels to drain briefly. Continue to fry the remaining potatoes in batches and allow the temperature to recover after each batch. Sprinkle with salt/toppings and serve immediately. If you want to keep them warm and crispy, you can do so in a 225F oven for about 15 minutes before they get soggy.

Topping Ideas

I made two kinds of fries:

Truffle salt, grated white Oregon truffles, and black pepper

Parmigiano Reggiano, kosher salt, and parsley

Here are other serving ideas:

• Smoked paprika and lemon zest
• Fresh thyme, gruyere cheese sauce (make a béchamel and slowly melt gruyere + Dijon mustard into it), sliced French madrange ham, and minced shallot broiled for a take on the famous Croque Madame sandwich
• Toss with a compound herb butter
• Serve with garlic confit aioli (see future posts)
• Toss with harissa, or make harissa aioli/ketchup
• Serve with bagna cauda (anchovy sauce)
• Make a classic Ranch dressing at home to serve on the side: Mix together: 1/2 cup mayonnaise + 1/2 cup sour cream + 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar + 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill + 1 teaspoon granulated garlic or 1 clove finely chopped garlic + kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper, flavors will mature and be even better later but it’s fine to eat it right away

My grade: B+ (based on Robert's assessment, I would give an A, but I'm biased with potatoes)
Recipe grade: A- (you will have to figure out how dark the fries should be for your tastes)
Diagnosis: Good, but I wish this method worked for sweet potatoes too.

Irish Soda Bread

I have so much love for Ina Garden. She was a huge reason I started cooking and has inspired a bulk of my dishes. She entertains guests with such an easy going elegance that is nearly impossible to copy, though I try. Her recipes are generally fool proof, though her idea of "ethnic" is pretty laughable. I think ethnic for her is Irish, and her Irish Soda bread is passable. It's not bad, especially if you have no preconceptions of what Irish Soda Bread should be. It's basically an overgrown scone minus most of the butter. Soda bread's crumbly texture and mild sweetness make it the perfect breakfast/tea accompaniment/snack. Serve warm with softened butter and preserves and get ready to carb load - you won't be able to stop.

My favorite Soda Bread recipes involve whole wheat flour, brown sugar/honey and turbinado sugar jeweled on the top. Ina's is made completely of white flour, contains only white sugar and no raw sugar sprinkles. It does have a bit of orange zest which is a nice non-traditional touch. Though I like other recipes better, Ina's is by far one of the easiest out there. If you're a novice to bread baking, or baking in general, try this recipe out. It's idiot proof and very impressive.

• 4 cups all-purpose flour, plus extra for currants
• 4 tablespoons sugar
• 1 teaspoon baking soda
• 1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
• 4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch dice
• 1 3/4 cups cold buttermilk, shaken
• 1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten
• 1 teaspoon grated orange zest
• 1 cup dried currants

Directions

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper.

Combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, and salt in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment. Add the butter and mix on low speed until the butter is mixed into the flour.

With a fork, lightly beat the buttermilk, egg, and orange zest together in a measuring cup. With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the buttermilk mixture to the flour mixture. Combine the currants with 1 tablespoon of flour and mix into the dough. It will be very wet (she isn't kidding, it looks like thick pancake batter).

Dump the dough onto a [very] well-floured board and knead it a few times into a round loaf. Place the loaf on the prepared sheet pan and lightly cut an X into the top of the bread with a serrated knife. Bake for 45 to 55 minutes, or until a cake tester comes out clean. When you tap the loaf, it will have a hollow sound.

Cool on a baking rack. Serve warm or at room temperature in big slices.

My grade: A-, I guess I could've waited a bit longer to cut into the loaf, but it smelled too good

Recipe grade: B-, good recipe as far as clarity, but not the best Irish Soda Bread I've had.

Diagnosis: Definitely worth trying, but if you think you'd prefer the whole wheat kind let me know and I will post the recipe.