Conscientious eating: Baby Cows and Donuts.

I don't know what my problem is - Why I've been so vacant. I've been hyper social lately, but don't feel like I'm all there. Most of the time I'm thinking of my house. My cat. My kitchen. My apparent boringness. I admit it, I either want to be a homebody or in some exotic location 99% of the time. Middle ground has never been my forte, but lately I can't seem to be satisfied by my favorite local hang outs. I see the same people in every bar and the urge to punch douchebags never seems to dissipate.

Admittedly, I did have a lovely evening last night at Sawyer Park, of all places. I visited an old friend, Evan, who is going off to law school in DC. Between telling him how much he was going to hate his life and drinking Jamesons, I had a great time. I miss being around people who "get" me, or if not me, at least my humor. My group of friends in Houston is great and I know we'll be friends for years to come. But most of the time there's a feeling of stagnation and listlessness that drags everyone down, even if they don't know it. I'm probably just projecting, but that's generally how I feel by the end of the night.

So, food. Right, this is a food blog. A month+ ago, I had the pleasure of dining on an entire meal of Thomas Keller knock offs from The French Laundry and Ad Hoc. Below you'll find the other two courses, Slow-roasted veal shank and "Coffee and Donuts".

Slow Roasted Veal Shank
adapted from Ad Hoc [Thomas Keller]

• 2 Large Veal Shanks, around 2# or more each (the recipe calls for 2 whole shanks aroung 4# each, but Central market didn't have them whole and there were no baby cows around to slaughter so I went for the cut version)
• 1 large onion, cut into 1" pieces
• 3 large carots, cut into 1" pieces
• 3 Large celery stalks, cut into 1" pieces
• Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper
• Canola Oil
• Gremolata (see below)

Let shanks come to room temp for at least 20 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat oven to 275F.

Toss the onion, carrots, and celery together and spread out in a small roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks. Season the shanks generously on all sides with the S&P.

Heat the canola oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Brown the shanks on all sides. Places on the vegetables and transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 3-4h (7-8h if using a whole shank), turning the shanks 3 or 4 times during the cooking to brown evenly. Cook until the meat is extremely tender and can be pulled off the bones with a meat fork. Remove from the oven and let rest in a warm spot for 30m. Sprinkle with gremolata at the last minute and serve.

Gremolata
From Ad Hoc [Thomas Keller]
This is actually a slightly unusual preparation of gremolata. Usually the process is a bit more slapdash and does not include bread crumbs, but this is careful and every step has a purpose. Would you expect anything less of Sir Keller?

• 1/2c Dried Bread crumbs (cut away crusts from a loaf of country bread, pulse in a food processor, spread on a cookie sheet and toast in a 250F oven for 30m. Toss the crumbs on the sheet and bake for an additional 30m. Or if you don't want to deal with an additional 1h process, just toast them on 350F turning often and watching them carefully)
• 1-2t Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 1 Lemon
• 1 medium garlic clove, or to taste
• S&P

 In a small bowl, toss the bread crumbs with just enough olive oil to lightly coat. Toss in the Parsley. Using a microplane, grate the lemon zest and garlic into the bowl. Season witht he S&P to taste. Serve soon after made, otherwise the bread crumbs become soggy and the lemon/herbs lose their punch.

My Grade: B+. I should've found a way to get primal cuts.
Recipe Grade: A.
Diagnosis: Don't bother unless you're going to make this with a whole veal shank. If the shank is cut, braise that puppy and send me pictures.

Note: when eating a cut shank, please for the love of all that is good and greasy in the world, don't miss out on the marrow. Spoon it out onto a piece of toasted bread, sprinkle with either gremolata or coarse sea salt and noms down.

The shanks are also best served with the garlic marble potatoes from Ad Hoc. Too bad I'm tired of typing and I have faith you all in cyberspace can roast a decent potato without a 500word explanation. Here's a picture to taunt you though:

And for dessert:
Coffee and Doughnuts: Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts
Adapted from The French Laundry [Thomas Keller]

Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts (cake donuts)
Part 1

• 1/4c + 1T water, at room temp
• 1/4 oz compressed fresh yeast
• 1/2c ap flour

Place the water in the bowl of a mixer. Crumble the yeast into the water (can sub dried yeast) and crush the yeast with a spoon to dissolve. Add the flour to the bowl and using the dough hook, mix slowly until the ingredients are thoroughly blended. transfer this sponge to a bowl, cover, and let proof at room temp for 1-2h, until it has doubled or place the bowl in the fridge to proof overnight.

Part 2

• 1/4 oz compressed fresh yeast
• 2T milk, at room temp
• 1c + 2T AP flour, or more as needed
• 3T sugar
• 1t Kosher salt
• 1/4c egg yolks (about 3 large yolks)
• 2T (1oz) melted unsalted butter, cooled
• canola oil for deep frying
• Cinnamon sugar: 1/2c sugar mixed with 1 1/4t ground cinnamon (or more)

  Crumble the yeast into the milk in a small bowl, stirring to dissolve. Place 3/4c of the flour, the sugar and salt in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the dough hook. Mixing on low speed, pour in the milk and yeast mixture, followed by the egg yolks and butter. Mix for a minute to combine.

Add the proofed sponge and the remaining 1/4c + 2T flour. Continue to beat at low speed until combined. Turn up the speed slightly and knead the dough for 4-5m, or until it has formed a ball and cleans the sides of the bowl. If the dough seems wet, it may be necessary to add 1-2T of flour. Cover the bowl and let the dough proof overnight in the fridge.

To Shape the doughnuts:
Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to 1/2" thickness. It's a very stiff dough so this is not as easy as it seems. Cut out the doughnuts using a 2" doughnut or biscuit cutter (and a 3/4" cutter for the hole if using a biscuit cutter). Place the doughnuts and their holes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover them with a sheet of plastic wrap that has been sprayed with nonstick spray.

At this point, the doughnuts can be frozen for several days, refrigerated, or allowed to rise at room temp. If they're frozen, defrost and then allow them to rise at room temp for 1-1.5h. They can be refrigerated for several hours or overnight, to rise slowly. When you remove them from the fridge, uncover them and let them finish proofing in a warm spot for 20-30m. If they have not been refrigerated or frozen, they should rise at room temp for 15m. Once proofed, they will have risen to apx 3/4".

To Cook the doughnuts:
In a heavy saucepan large enough to hold half the doughnuts and holes at a time, heat canola oil to 325F. Add half the doughnuts and holes, cooking for apx 30s on the first side. Flip them and fry for about 1m on the second side, tehn turn back to the first side to cook for an additional 30s, or until a deep golden brown. Remove the doughnut, drain briefly on paper towels, and toss them in the cinnamon sugar. Repeat with remaining.

Cappuccino Semifreddo

• 2 large eggs, separated
• 3 large egg yolks
• 1/2 vanilla bean, split
• 2T espresso extract
• 1/2c heavy cream
• 1/2c milk, if you want the steamed milk on top of the semifreddo, but I didn't do it and don't think it's necessary other than for the overall cappuccino look

Place the egg yolks and 1/4c + 2T sugar in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean into the bowl. Whip for about 12m at medium speed, or until the mixture has lightened and tripled in volume. Beat in the espresso extract. Transfer the mixture into a bowl placed in a larger bowl of ice water to maintain its consistency.

In a mixer bowl or metal bowl, whip the heavy cream with 3T of the sugar until it holds its shape when the whisk or beater is lifted. Fold the whipped cream into the yolk mixture and return the bowl to the ice.

Whip the egg whites in a mixer bowl or metal bowl until they are frothy. While whipping, add in the remaining 3T of sugar and whip the eggwhites just until they hold soft peaks, being careful not to overwhip them. Fold the beaten egg whites into the egg yolk mixture until they are completely combined.

Spoon the semifreddo into six 8-10oz coffee cups, leaving at least 1/2" at the top for the steamed milk. This stuff is very fluffy, but super rich. If I made it again, I would fill the cups half way. Gently tap the cups against the counter to level the mixture. Cover the cups with plastic wrap and place them in the freezer until frozen, at least 6-8h or overnight. These will keep for up to 3d in the freezer. After that time, they will start to deflate.

To Complete (finally, I know you're hungry now):

Remove the semifreddo from the freezer a few minutes before serving to soften slightly. Steam the milk using a a cappuccino machine (that we all have lying around) or frothing machine (that too). Place a cup of semifreddo and doughnut on each of six plates. Top each doughnut with a hole. Spoon the steamed milk over the semifreddo and serve immediately.

My Grade: B+. The doughnuts were a bit heavy, though TK indicates a fondness for heavy, cake donuts so perhaps that's the way they were supposed to be.
Recipe grade: A. This man explains things TOO much.
Diagnosis: Semifreddo is going in permanent rotation, but the donuts are a bit too much hassle for the outcome.

Ye Ol’Tot.

You know, when I said butternut squash was encroaching on tater’s territory, I was just joshin’. I mean really, there can only be one supreme ruler of my vegetable world, and that distinction remains firmly in the potato’s starchy grasp. I think its humble elegance is what grabs me. So rarely does the potato shine as the entrée. French fries, for example, are an everyday food, almost ignored and usually relegated to the label “side dish”. It is pushed aside by so many, yet still beloved and worthy of center plate. However, all one needs to do is change the label to “pomme frite” (or for that matter, add any French word like Dauphinois, puree, Lyonnaise, etc.) and it is elevated to haute cuisine. People will ooh and ahh and fall all over themselves to tell you about their Belgian experience with the perfect fry. They’re memorable, and your homemade pomme frite will be just as good.

In pursuit of the perfect French fry you endure a few more steps than you’re used to. Step one, turn your back on the freezer isle. I know frozen fries are easy, and there are good brands out there, but none of them will ever be as good as a home cut, freshly fried potato.

The Potato

Buy russet potatoes, the humblest potato of them all. Those little fingerlings are too waxy, and as delicious as Yukon golds are, they face the same waxy fate. You want something super starchy and fluffy – the starchiest and fluffiest out there is the Idaho russet.

Now slice the potato in finger size batons at least an hour in advance, peel the potato if you wish, but the peel won’t hurt the result or you (yay for nutrients!). Leave the batons in cold water to cover until you’re ready to fry them. This will wash away the excess starch on the outside that could hinder the browning and general deliciousness. But beware, water and hot shimmering oil do not mix. Dry them off thoroughly with a towel and/or salad spinner before depositing in the oil.

The Oil

Use a light oil like peanut, vegetable, or canola. Peanut tastes the best in frying, but can be a bit pricer than the others. I confess to using canola most of the time. It’s heart healthy, cheap, and has a high smoke point. You MUST have a thermometer that can withstand temperatures of at least 400F. I like the digital thermometers that you can set to a certain goal temperature. That way you can set it, leave it in the oil, and it will beep when the oil is at the correct temperature. Just be sure to not let the thermometer touch the bottom/sides for accurate readings.

The Method

Pour the oil into a deep, heavy pot large enough so that it comes no more than halfway up its sides, and heat to 320˚F, or until a potato stick dropped into the oil sinks to the bottom of the pot and then rises to the surface (I usually heat the oil to 330F initially so the temperature will recover to 320F faster). Add a handful of the potatoes and fry for about 10 minutes, or until cooked through but not browned. If the potatoes start to brown, reduce the heat slightly. Using a spider or skimmer, remove the potatoes from the oil and put them on a sheet pan/plate (not paper towels or it will stick), Continue to fry the remaining potatoes in batches.

Increase the temperature of the oil to 365˚F. Add a handful of the potatoes and fry for 1 to 2 minutes, or until golden brown. Using a spider or skimmer, transfer the potatoes to paper towels to drain briefly. Continue to fry the remaining potatoes in batches and allow the temperature to recover after each batch. Sprinkle with salt/toppings and serve immediately. If you want to keep them warm and crispy, you can do so in a 225F oven for about 15 minutes before they get soggy.

Topping Ideas

I made two kinds of fries:

Truffle salt, grated white Oregon truffles, and black pepper

Parmigiano Reggiano, kosher salt, and parsley

Here are other serving ideas:

• Smoked paprika and lemon zest
• Fresh thyme, gruyere cheese sauce (make a béchamel and slowly melt gruyere + Dijon mustard into it), sliced French madrange ham, and minced shallot broiled for a take on the famous Croque Madame sandwich
• Toss with a compound herb butter
• Serve with garlic confit aioli (see future posts)
• Toss with harissa, or make harissa aioli/ketchup
• Serve with bagna cauda (anchovy sauce)
• Make a classic Ranch dressing at home to serve on the side: Mix together: 1/2 cup mayonnaise + 1/2 cup sour cream + 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar + 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill + 1 teaspoon granulated garlic or 1 clove finely chopped garlic + kosher salt and fresh cracked black pepper, flavors will mature and be even better later but it’s fine to eat it right away

My grade: B+ (based on Robert's assessment, I would give an A, but I'm biased with potatoes)
Recipe grade: A- (you will have to figure out how dark the fries should be for your tastes)
Diagnosis: Good, but I wish this method worked for sweet potatoes too.