11.21.2010
Haven't I?
So I haven't died... yet. Finals time has arrived and has brought its minions, ulcer and stress hives. Okay, maybe not that bad, but the violet bags under my eyes after 3h nights are more than noticeable. My kitchen ceiling is currently leaking murky rust colored water into my gas range, which I'm terribly excited about (wtf, landlord). Someday (someday = Dec 18th), I will wake up in the absence of an alarm clock, call some friends over for Prosecco and an ornate breakfast, and update this poor neglected blog. Until then, this is my fun:
9.20.2010
Spicy Gochu Chicken Salad with Candied Ginger.
I feel this website has gone high brow and that's not all I'm about. Most days, when I return from a 12h stint in the law school, I want something homey. A classic that comforts you. Something that reminds you of the faint lingering musk of your parents' kitchen. That being said, I'm not fond of all American classics - chicken salad, for example, is not the tits. The gloopiness - the tongue-coating bloat of mayonnaise makes me shiver, and not in a good way. Smooth creaminess has its place in my heart, but I try my best to keep it out of my arteries (though I often fail).
I propose a new way to prepare chicken salad: Korean style. I grew up eating spicy pork with gochujang, but I honestly prefer chicken. Chicken is cheap as chips (I don't know why all this Brit slang is making it into this post), readily available (but please buy free range/air chilled. If you disagree I challenge you to drink a bottle of wine then watch the middle scene of Baraka. Near vomit inducing as far as I'm concerned.), and fast (That's right another parenthetical, just for the hell of it.). It's also idiot proof. I grew up cooking and eating the pork version, but it still confounds me. The balance of salty sweet pork is a hard road to forge. If you're a beginner, go for the chicken. The pork version also requires a LOT of sugar which is generally omitted from the poultry version. If you or yours have never tried Korean food, or have only had bulgogi/kalbi (the beef bbq), give this a go - you know, test your horizons. It's not nearly as scary as you'd think.
Spicy Gochu Chicken Salad with Candied Ginger.
(measurements approximated - sorry I'm terrible at measuring things)
ingredients
1T veg/canola/peanut/neutral oil
2 lbs chicken breast, thighs, or tenders cut into 1" pieces, fat and skin removed
1t ginger, finely minced (optional)
1T gochujang (korean chili paste, see below)
1T gochu flakes (again, see below)
1T sugar
1T minced garlic
2T soy sauce
1T mirin
1T sake
1/2 T sesame oil
Here's the easy part: Mix everything but the neutral oil together. Let it sit for an hour. Or for however long you have - an hour, a day, 30 minutes. It's not a very fussy dish.
In the mean time, you can cut up you favorite salad fixin's. Below I've included julienned Belgian endive and carrot (on a mandoline for ease), tomato, romaine, blanched asparagus, green onion, and toasted peanuts.
When you get all your mis together, it's time to saute the chicken. I'd recommend a non-stick pan, though a grill would also work. The marinade is less than forgiving on non-stick surfaces, however, so chef beware. Heat the tablespoon of oil in the pan over medium high to high heat. When it's almost smoking, throw in your chicken and sear on all sides. This should take a matter of minutes (3-5m max). When it's cooked through, remove and toss with the other salad ingredients. Want to know the secret ingredient to this salad? I'm telling you anyway: Very thinly sliced crystallized ginger. The mild heat and chewy sweetness of ginger is the perfect counterpoint to chili's warm undertones and garlic's slap-Dracula-in-the-face potency.
I propose a new way to prepare chicken salad: Korean style. I grew up eating spicy pork with gochujang, but I honestly prefer chicken. Chicken is cheap as chips (I don't know why all this Brit slang is making it into this post), readily available (but please buy free range/air chilled. If you disagree I challenge you to drink a bottle of wine then watch the middle scene of Baraka. Near vomit inducing as far as I'm concerned.), and fast (That's right another parenthetical, just for the hell of it.). It's also idiot proof. I grew up cooking and eating the pork version, but it still confounds me. The balance of salty sweet pork is a hard road to forge. If you're a beginner, go for the chicken. The pork version also requires a LOT of sugar which is generally omitted from the poultry version. If you or yours have never tried Korean food, or have only had bulgogi/kalbi (the beef bbq), give this a go - you know, test your horizons. It's not nearly as scary as you'd think.
Spicy Gochu Chicken Salad with Candied Ginger.
(measurements approximated - sorry I'm terrible at measuring things)
ingredients
1T veg/canola/peanut/neutral oil
2 lbs chicken breast, thighs, or tenders cut into 1" pieces, fat and skin removed
1t ginger, finely minced (optional)
1T gochujang (korean chili paste, see below)
1T gochu flakes (again, see below)
1T sugar
1T minced garlic
2T soy sauce
1T mirin
1T sake
1/2 T sesame oil
 |
| Gochu - I even have a hard time finding it. You might be able to substitute a mixture of ground red pepper flakes and chili powder, though. |
 |
| Gochujang paste - Easily purchased from any Asian grocer |
Here's the easy part: Mix everything but the neutral oil together. Let it sit for an hour. Or for however long you have - an hour, a day, 30 minutes. It's not a very fussy dish.
In the mean time, you can cut up you favorite salad fixin's. Below I've included julienned Belgian endive and carrot (on a mandoline for ease), tomato, romaine, blanched asparagus, green onion, and toasted peanuts.
 |
| Why I need a sous chef. Any volunteers? |
When you get all your mis together, it's time to saute the chicken. I'd recommend a non-stick pan, though a grill would also work. The marinade is less than forgiving on non-stick surfaces, however, so chef beware. Heat the tablespoon of oil in the pan over medium high to high heat. When it's almost smoking, throw in your chicken and sear on all sides. This should take a matter of minutes (3-5m max). When it's cooked through, remove and toss with the other salad ingredients. Want to know the secret ingredient to this salad? I'm telling you anyway: Very thinly sliced crystallized ginger. The mild heat and chewy sweetness of ginger is the perfect counterpoint to chili's warm undertones and garlic's slap-Dracula-in-the-face potency.
 |
| I thought this was actually too much ginger when I was making the salad, but ended up having to chop more. |
 |
| Serve with nuoc mam or whatever suitable dressing you have around (put that hidden valley away, you pleb). |
8.18.2010
Quick Bytes - Summer 2010.
A few photos for you to digest:
Pea Soup
Garlic crostini, minted fresh pea puree, crisp prosciutto, Parmesan frico
 | |||
| Tiramisu |
This is the most unnecessarily complicated recipe I've ever made. Good, but too sweet.
(http://www.cafenilson.com/2010/02/daring-bakers-tiramisu/)
 |
| Nori |
Didn't think dried seaweed could be so pretty, huh?
 |
| Chai |
I try to customize my own blends by adding more cardamom, crushed cinnamon sticks, and cloves. I also don't make mine too sweet, but it's a matter of preference.
 |
| Tabla Egg Yolk Raviolo |
The yolk oozes out making a pleasing sauce with the ricotta/swiss chard filling. I served these atop brioche croutons, asparagus, and a variety of beets. I wouldn't recommend going to the thinnest setting on your pasta machine. I went to 8 (out of 9) and I thought it was actually too thin. Also, the duck egg in the bottom right was an epic failure. Apparently they have too much moisture to be contained. Working on it.
(http://feastpdx.blogspot.com/2008/09/tabla-egg-ravioli.html)
 |
| La Grande Orange's Brussels Sprout salad with mustard vinagrette |
Okay, this isn't the finished product - I ate it too fast to remember photos. Seriously, best salad I've had in a long time. I added some mint to mine and it was a perfect counterpoint to the braised lamb I served with it.
(http://www.latimes.com/features/food/la-fo-sos1-2009apr01,0,7915994.story)
 |
| Strawberry mascarpone tart |
What a headache. I'm not a baker.
 |
| Beignets at Cafe Du Monde |
I admit it, I'm a tourist.
 |
| Muffuletta from Central Grocery |
I can't help myself.
 |
| Padron Peppers and Patatas Bravas |
Please buy these for me: http://www.tienda.com/food/products/vg-08.html - Only $30 shipping!
 |
| Roulette Prawns [Cal Pep] |
Tom remembers these well.
 |
| Jamon Iberico |
The turning point for most Jews and Muslims.
 |
| Squid Ink Paella |
 |
| MORE PRAWNS! |
The day after Tom got food poisoning from an errant prawn I made reservations to the best paella place in town. He was mighty excited about the prospect of MORE prawns.
 |
| Fresh Fish [Bouqeria Market] |
Still stiff with rigor.
8.10.2010
Conscientious eating: Baby Cows and Donuts.
I don't know what my problem is - Why I've been so vacant. I've been hyper social lately, but don't feel like I'm all there. Most of the time I'm thinking of my house. My cat. My kitchen. My apparent boringness. I admit it, I either want to be a homebody or in some exotic location 99% of the time. Middle ground has never been my forte, but lately I can't seem to be satisfied by my favorite local hang outs. I see the same people in every bar and the urge to punch douchebags never seems to dissipate.
Admittedly, I did have a lovely evening last night at Sawyer Park, of all places. I visited an old friend, Evan, who is going off to law school in DC. Between telling him how much he was going to hate his life and drinking Jamesons, I had a great time. I miss being around people who "get" me, or if not me, at least my humor. My group of friends in Houston is great and I know we'll be friends for years to come. But most of the time there's a feeling of stagnation and listlessness that drags everyone down, even if they don't know it. I'm probably just projecting, but that's generally how I feel by the end of the night.
So, food. Right, this is a food blog. A month+ ago, I had the pleasure of dining on an entire meal of Thomas Keller knock offs from The French Laundry and Ad Hoc. Below you'll find the other two courses, Slow-roasted veal shank and "Coffee and Donuts".
Slow Roasted Veal Shank
adapted from Ad Hoc [Thomas Keller]
Toss the onion, carrots, and celery together and spread out in a small roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks. Season the shanks generously on all sides with the S&P.
Heat the canola oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Brown the shanks on all sides. Places on the vegetables and transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 3-4h (7-8h if using a whole shank), turning the shanks 3 or 4 times during the cooking to brown evenly. Cook until the meat is extremely tender and can be pulled off the bones with a meat fork. Remove from the oven and let rest in a warm spot for 30m. Sprinkle with gremolata at the last minute and serve.
Gremolata
From Ad Hoc [Thomas Keller]
This is actually a slightly unusual preparation of gremolata. Usually the process is a bit more slapdash and does not include bread crumbs, but this is careful and every step has a purpose. Would you expect anything less of Sir Keller?
My Grade: B+. I should've found a way to get primal cuts.
Recipe Grade: A.
Diagnosis: Don't bother unless you're going to make this with a whole veal shank. If the shank is cut, braise that puppy and send me pictures.
Note: when eating a cut shank, please for the love of all that is good and greasy in the world, don't miss out on the marrow. Spoon it out onto a piece of toasted bread, sprinkle with either gremolata or coarse sea salt and noms down.
The shanks are also best served with the garlic marble potatoes from Ad Hoc. Too bad I'm tired of typing and I have faith you all in cyberspace can roast a decent potato without a 500word explanation. Here's a picture to taunt you though:
And for dessert:
Coffee and Doughnuts: Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts
Adapted from The French Laundry [Thomas Keller]
Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts (cake donuts)
Part 1
Part 2
Add the proofed sponge and the remaining 1/4c + 2T flour. Continue to beat at low speed until combined. Turn up the speed slightly and knead the dough for 4-5m, or until it has formed a ball and cleans the sides of the bowl. If the dough seems wet, it may be necessary to add 1-2T of flour. Cover the bowl and let the dough proof overnight in the fridge.
To Shape the doughnuts:
Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to 1/2" thickness. It's a very stiff dough so this is not as easy as it seems. Cut out the doughnuts using a 2" doughnut or biscuit cutter (and a 3/4" cutter for the hole if using a biscuit cutter). Place the doughnuts and their holes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover them with a sheet of plastic wrap that has been sprayed with nonstick spray.
At this point, the doughnuts can be frozen for several days, refrigerated, or allowed to rise at room temp. If they're frozen, defrost and then allow them to rise at room temp for 1-1.5h. They can be refrigerated for several hours or overnight, to rise slowly. When you remove them from the fridge, uncover them and let them finish proofing in a warm spot for 20-30m. If they have not been refrigerated or frozen, they should rise at room temp for 15m. Once proofed, they will have risen to apx 3/4".
To Cook the doughnuts:
In a heavy saucepan large enough to hold half the doughnuts and holes at a time, heat canola oil to 325F. Add half the doughnuts and holes, cooking for apx 30s on the first side. Flip them and fry for about 1m on the second side, tehn turn back to the first side to cook for an additional 30s, or until a deep golden brown. Remove the doughnut, drain briefly on paper towels, and toss them in the cinnamon sugar. Repeat with remaining.
Cappuccino Semifreddo
In a mixer bowl or metal bowl, whip the heavy cream with 3T of the sugar until it holds its shape when the whisk or beater is lifted. Fold the whipped cream into the yolk mixture and return the bowl to the ice.
Whip the egg whites in a mixer bowl or metal bowl until they are frothy. While whipping, add in the remaining 3T of sugar and whip the eggwhites just until they hold soft peaks, being careful not to overwhip them. Fold the beaten egg whites into the egg yolk mixture until they are completely combined.
Spoon the semifreddo into six 8-10oz coffee cups, leaving at least 1/2" at the top for the steamed milk. This stuff is very fluffy, but super rich. If I made it again, I would fill the cups half way. Gently tap the cups against the counter to level the mixture. Cover the cups with plastic wrap and place them in the freezer until frozen, at least 6-8h or overnight. These will keep for up to 3d in the freezer. After that time, they will start to deflate.
To Complete (finally, I know you're hungry now):
Remove the semifreddo from the freezer a few minutes before serving to soften slightly. Steam the milk using a a cappuccino machine (that we all have lying around) or frothing machine (that too). Place a cup of semifreddo and doughnut on each of six plates. Top each doughnut with a hole. Spoon the steamed milk over the semifreddo and serve immediately.
My Grade: B+. The doughnuts were a bit heavy, though TK indicates a fondness for heavy, cake donuts so perhaps that's the way they were supposed to be.
Recipe grade: A. This man explains things TOO much.
Diagnosis: Semifreddo is going in permanent rotation, but the donuts are a bit too much hassle for the outcome.
Admittedly, I did have a lovely evening last night at Sawyer Park, of all places. I visited an old friend, Evan, who is going off to law school in DC. Between telling him how much he was going to hate his life and drinking Jamesons, I had a great time. I miss being around people who "get" me, or if not me, at least my humor. My group of friends in Houston is great and I know we'll be friends for years to come. But most of the time there's a feeling of stagnation and listlessness that drags everyone down, even if they don't know it. I'm probably just projecting, but that's generally how I feel by the end of the night.
So, food. Right, this is a food blog. A month+ ago, I had the pleasure of dining on an entire meal of Thomas Keller knock offs from The French Laundry and Ad Hoc. Below you'll find the other two courses, Slow-roasted veal shank and "Coffee and Donuts".
Slow Roasted Veal Shank
adapted from Ad Hoc [Thomas Keller]
- 2 Large Veal Shanks, around 2# or more each (the recipe calls for 2 whole shanks aroung 4# each, but Central market didn't have them whole and there were no baby cows around to slaughter so I went for the cut version)
- 1 large onion, cut into 1" pieces
- 3 large carots, cut into 1" pieces
- 3 Large celery stalks, cut into 1" pieces
- Kosher Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper
- Canola Oil
- Gremolata (see below)
Toss the onion, carrots, and celery together and spread out in a small roasting pan or baking dish large enough to hold the shanks. Season the shanks generously on all sides with the S&P.
Heat the canola oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat until shimmering. Brown the shanks on all sides. Places on the vegetables and transfer the pan to the oven and cook for 3-4h (7-8h if using a whole shank), turning the shanks 3 or 4 times during the cooking to brown evenly. Cook until the meat is extremely tender and can be pulled off the bones with a meat fork. Remove from the oven and let rest in a warm spot for 30m. Sprinkle with gremolata at the last minute and serve.
Gremolata
From Ad Hoc [Thomas Keller]
This is actually a slightly unusual preparation of gremolata. Usually the process is a bit more slapdash and does not include bread crumbs, but this is careful and every step has a purpose. Would you expect anything less of Sir Keller?
- 1/2c Dried Bread crumbs (cut away crusts from a loaf of country bread, pulse in a food processor, spread on a cookie sheet and toast in a 250F oven for 30m. Toss the crumbs on the sheet and bake for an additional 30m. Or if you don't want to deal with an additional 1h process, just toast them on 350F turning often and watching them carefully)
- 1-2t Extra Virgin Olive Oil
- 1 Lemon
- 1 medium garlic clove, or to taste
- S&P
My Grade: B+. I should've found a way to get primal cuts.
Recipe Grade: A.
Diagnosis: Don't bother unless you're going to make this with a whole veal shank. If the shank is cut, braise that puppy and send me pictures.
Note: when eating a cut shank, please for the love of all that is good and greasy in the world, don't miss out on the marrow. Spoon it out onto a piece of toasted bread, sprinkle with either gremolata or coarse sea salt and noms down.
The shanks are also best served with the garlic marble potatoes from Ad Hoc. Too bad I'm tired of typing and I have faith you all in cyberspace can roast a decent potato without a 500word explanation. Here's a picture to taunt you though:
And for dessert:
Coffee and Doughnuts: Cappuccino Semifreddo with Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts
Adapted from The French Laundry [Thomas Keller]
Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnuts (cake donuts)
Part 1
- 1/4c + 1T water, at room temp
- 1/4 oz compressed fresh yeast
- 1/2c ap flour
Part 2
- 1/4 oz compressed fresh yeast
- 2T milk, at room temp
- 1c + 2T AP flour, or more as needed
- 3T sugar
- 1t Kosher salt
- 1/4c egg yolks (about 3 large yolks)
- 2T (1oz) melted unsalted butter, cooled
- canola oil for deep frying
- Cinnamon sugar: 1/2c sugar mixed with 1 1/4t ground cinnamon (or more)
Add the proofed sponge and the remaining 1/4c + 2T flour. Continue to beat at low speed until combined. Turn up the speed slightly and knead the dough for 4-5m, or until it has formed a ball and cleans the sides of the bowl. If the dough seems wet, it may be necessary to add 1-2T of flour. Cover the bowl and let the dough proof overnight in the fridge.
To Shape the doughnuts:
Place the chilled dough on a lightly floured surface and roll out to 1/2" thickness. It's a very stiff dough so this is not as easy as it seems. Cut out the doughnuts using a 2" doughnut or biscuit cutter (and a 3/4" cutter for the hole if using a biscuit cutter). Place the doughnuts and their holes on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover them with a sheet of plastic wrap that has been sprayed with nonstick spray.
At this point, the doughnuts can be frozen for several days, refrigerated, or allowed to rise at room temp. If they're frozen, defrost and then allow them to rise at room temp for 1-1.5h. They can be refrigerated for several hours or overnight, to rise slowly. When you remove them from the fridge, uncover them and let them finish proofing in a warm spot for 20-30m. If they have not been refrigerated or frozen, they should rise at room temp for 15m. Once proofed, they will have risen to apx 3/4".
To Cook the doughnuts:
In a heavy saucepan large enough to hold half the doughnuts and holes at a time, heat canola oil to 325F. Add half the doughnuts and holes, cooking for apx 30s on the first side. Flip them and fry for about 1m on the second side, tehn turn back to the first side to cook for an additional 30s, or until a deep golden brown. Remove the doughnut, drain briefly on paper towels, and toss them in the cinnamon sugar. Repeat with remaining.
Cappuccino Semifreddo
- 2 large eggs, separated
- 3 large egg yolks
- 1/2 vanilla bean, split
- 2T espresso extract
- 1/2c heavy cream
- 1/2c milk, if you want the steamed milk on top of the semifreddo, but I didn't do it and don't think it's necessary other than for the overall cappuccino look
In a mixer bowl or metal bowl, whip the heavy cream with 3T of the sugar until it holds its shape when the whisk or beater is lifted. Fold the whipped cream into the yolk mixture and return the bowl to the ice.
Whip the egg whites in a mixer bowl or metal bowl until they are frothy. While whipping, add in the remaining 3T of sugar and whip the eggwhites just until they hold soft peaks, being careful not to overwhip them. Fold the beaten egg whites into the egg yolk mixture until they are completely combined.
Spoon the semifreddo into six 8-10oz coffee cups, leaving at least 1/2" at the top for the steamed milk. This stuff is very fluffy, but super rich. If I made it again, I would fill the cups half way. Gently tap the cups against the counter to level the mixture. Cover the cups with plastic wrap and place them in the freezer until frozen, at least 6-8h or overnight. These will keep for up to 3d in the freezer. After that time, they will start to deflate.
To Complete (finally, I know you're hungry now):
Remove the semifreddo from the freezer a few minutes before serving to soften slightly. Steam the milk using a a cappuccino machine (that we all have lying around) or frothing machine (that too). Place a cup of semifreddo and doughnut on each of six plates. Top each doughnut with a hole. Spoon the steamed milk over the semifreddo and serve immediately.
My Grade: B+. The doughnuts were a bit heavy, though TK indicates a fondness for heavy, cake donuts so perhaps that's the way they were supposed to be.
Recipe grade: A. This man explains things TOO much.
Diagnosis: Semifreddo is going in permanent rotation, but the donuts are a bit too much hassle for the outcome.
6.29.2010
Thomas Keller Weekend - Salmon tartare "Cornets" with sweet red onion creme fraiche
Prize: I will make this recipe for anyone who buys me 5+ cornet molds. It's a win-win, right?
These are difficult. They were annoying and fickle. But they were some of the best bites of food I've made at home in the past year. You don't plan on making a Thomas Keller dish because it's convenient. You make it because you want to be wowed - He doesn't fail to deliver here. The other three Keller dishes from this past weekend were good, but these cornets took the cake. If you're sadistic and overindulgent like me, you'll need the recipe:
Cornets
1/4c + 3T AP flour
1 T + 1t sugar
1t kosher salt
8T unsalted butter, softened but still cool to the touch
2 large egg whites, cold
2 T black sesame seeds
These are a pain to make. I’m not sure if I have fingerprints after making only 8 of them. The cornets must be formed while the dough is still hot i.e. while you can still see the butter bubbling and still smell your skin roasting. Fun, right?
They also take extremely specialized cookware, which is less than preferable in my cramped kitchen. In the end (the very end, unfortunately) aluminum was discovered. You can crumple and form aluminum foil into cones instead of rushing out to sur la table to pay $4 for each cornet cone. They should look something like this.
Mix flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the softened butter until completely smooth and mayonnaise like in texture. Beat the egg whites into the dry ingredients until completely incorporated and smooth. Whisk in the softened butter by thirds, scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary and whisking until the batter is creamy and w/o any lumps. Transfer the batter to a smaller container as it will be easier to work with.
Preheat oven to 400F
Make 4 inch hollow circular stencil (can be done with a compass, cardboard, and a steady hand). Place on a silpat or parchment on the counter first b/c it’s easier to work with. Use the stencil to spread 4in, thin rounds of dough on the silpat. After you bake the first batch you’ll get a feel for how thick it should be. Repeat as necessary. Sprinkle each with black sesame seeds. Put the silpat on a heavy baking sheet and bake for 4-6m or until batter is set and you see it rippling from the heat. You don’t want to see much color on them at this point, lest they become unrollable.
Open the oven door and place the baking sheet on the door so the cornets stay warm as you roll them. Flip the cornet over on the sheet pan, and place a 4 ½ inch cornet mold (size #35 if you decide to buy them) at the bottom of the round. The tip of the mold should touch the lower left edge of the edge of the cornet. Fold the bottom of the cornet up and around the mold and roll the cornet tightly around the mold. This is not as easy as it sounds, and when I read it, it sounded really difficult. Leave the cornet wrapped around the mold and continue to roll the cornets around molds, leaving them seam side down on the baking sheet. Return them to the oven and bake for an additional 3-4 minutes until browned. Allow to cool slightly after removing from the oven before removing from the molds. Put on paper towels to cool. Allow the baking sheet and silpat to cool before repeating. Store the cornets for up to 2 days in an airtight container.
Salmon tartare
4oz salmon filet, finely minced
¾ t extra virgin olive oil
¾ t lemon oil (or extra olive oil and some lemon zest)
1 ½ t finely minced chives
1 ½ t finely minced shallot
½ t kosher salt
a little pepper (white preferable)
Finally something I know how to do. Cut the salmon carefully, and try not to handle it too much – your hands are hot and can ruin the texture.
With a sharp knife, finely mince the salmon fillet (NO food processors) and place in a small bowl with all the other ingredients. Taste for seasoning. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30m.
Sweet red onion crème fraiche
1 T finely minced red onion
1/2 c crème fraiche
¼ t kosher salt
a little pepper (white)
Place the red onions in a small strainer and rinse them under cold water for several seconds. Dry them and put in a small bowl with the crème fraiche. Whisk it together until the crème fraiche is fluffy. Add the other ingredients and mix. Put into a piping bag or Ziploc bag and refrigerate – this will make it easier to pipe later.
To finish:
Fill the cornets up to ½ in of the top with the onion cream leaving the bottom of the cone empty (but you don’t have to, the crème is so good). Spoon the tartare on the top and fashion into a ice cream cone like shape. Keller recommends putting a chive tip on the top, but I like the look of finely minced chives better. Your choice.
Also, if you don’t care about cornets/don’t want to mess with it, then just bake them flat and pile the stuff on top. Alternatively, you can mold them into mini muffin cups so they’re like mini tartlets. Tartlets of JOY.
Still to come: "Coffee and Doughnuts" and Slow roasted veal shank + garlic potatoes, all compliments of Sir Keller himself.
Recipe: A+. Can't argue with it.
My Grade: A-. Wish I had some cornets.
Diagnosis: Beware your fingertips and waist line.
These are difficult. They were annoying and fickle. But they were some of the best bites of food I've made at home in the past year. You don't plan on making a Thomas Keller dish because it's convenient. You make it because you want to be wowed - He doesn't fail to deliver here. The other three Keller dishes from this past weekend were good, but these cornets took the cake. If you're sadistic and overindulgent like me, you'll need the recipe:
Cornets
1/4c + 3T AP flour
1 T + 1t sugar
1t kosher salt
8T unsalted butter, softened but still cool to the touch
2 large egg whites, cold
2 T black sesame seeds
These are a pain to make. I’m not sure if I have fingerprints after making only 8 of them. The cornets must be formed while the dough is still hot i.e. while you can still see the butter bubbling and still smell your skin roasting. Fun, right?
They also take extremely specialized cookware, which is less than preferable in my cramped kitchen. In the end (the very end, unfortunately) aluminum was discovered. You can crumple and form aluminum foil into cones instead of rushing out to sur la table to pay $4 for each cornet cone. They should look something like this.
Mix flour, sugar, and salt in a medium bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk the softened butter until completely smooth and mayonnaise like in texture. Beat the egg whites into the dry ingredients until completely incorporated and smooth. Whisk in the softened butter by thirds, scraping the sides of the bowl as necessary and whisking until the batter is creamy and w/o any lumps. Transfer the batter to a smaller container as it will be easier to work with.
Preheat oven to 400F
Make 4 inch hollow circular stencil (can be done with a compass, cardboard, and a steady hand). Place on a silpat or parchment on the counter first b/c it’s easier to work with. Use the stencil to spread 4in, thin rounds of dough on the silpat. After you bake the first batch you’ll get a feel for how thick it should be. Repeat as necessary. Sprinkle each with black sesame seeds. Put the silpat on a heavy baking sheet and bake for 4-6m or until batter is set and you see it rippling from the heat. You don’t want to see much color on them at this point, lest they become unrollable.
Open the oven door and place the baking sheet on the door so the cornets stay warm as you roll them. Flip the cornet over on the sheet pan, and place a 4 ½ inch cornet mold (size #35 if you decide to buy them) at the bottom of the round. The tip of the mold should touch the lower left edge of the edge of the cornet. Fold the bottom of the cornet up and around the mold and roll the cornet tightly around the mold. This is not as easy as it sounds, and when I read it, it sounded really difficult. Leave the cornet wrapped around the mold and continue to roll the cornets around molds, leaving them seam side down on the baking sheet. Return them to the oven and bake for an additional 3-4 minutes until browned. Allow to cool slightly after removing from the oven before removing from the molds. Put on paper towels to cool. Allow the baking sheet and silpat to cool before repeating. Store the cornets for up to 2 days in an airtight container.
Salmon tartare
4oz salmon filet, finely minced
¾ t extra virgin olive oil
¾ t lemon oil (or extra olive oil and some lemon zest)
1 ½ t finely minced chives
1 ½ t finely minced shallot
½ t kosher salt
a little pepper (white preferable)
Finally something I know how to do. Cut the salmon carefully, and try not to handle it too much – your hands are hot and can ruin the texture.
With a sharp knife, finely mince the salmon fillet (NO food processors) and place in a small bowl with all the other ingredients. Taste for seasoning. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30m.
Sweet red onion crème fraiche
1 T finely minced red onion
1/2 c crème fraiche
¼ t kosher salt
a little pepper (white)
Place the red onions in a small strainer and rinse them under cold water for several seconds. Dry them and put in a small bowl with the crème fraiche. Whisk it together until the crème fraiche is fluffy. Add the other ingredients and mix. Put into a piping bag or Ziploc bag and refrigerate – this will make it easier to pipe later.
To finish:
Fill the cornets up to ½ in of the top with the onion cream leaving the bottom of the cone empty (but you don’t have to, the crème is so good). Spoon the tartare on the top and fashion into a ice cream cone like shape. Keller recommends putting a chive tip on the top, but I like the look of finely minced chives better. Your choice.
Also, if you don’t care about cornets/don’t want to mess with it, then just bake them flat and pile the stuff on top. Alternatively, you can mold them into mini muffin cups so they’re like mini tartlets. Tartlets of JOY.
Really though. Just get them in your mouth.
Still to come: "Coffee and Doughnuts" and Slow roasted veal shank + garlic potatoes, all compliments of Sir Keller himself.
Recipe: A+. Can't argue with it.
My Grade: A-. Wish I had some cornets.
Diagnosis: Beware your fingertips and waist line.
6.10.2010
Back in action - Gordon Ramsay.
After a harrowing end of semester push and extravagant multi-city, worldwide romp: I'm BACK. That's right, friends, and I have goodies for you. My dear friend, Tom, took me to Gordon Ramsay in London for my first ever 3-Michelin star tasting menu experience. (Un)fortunately, it was an utter surprise so I was the most under dressed person there and didn't bring a camera. I mean, how could he?
Really though, it was one of the best, most surprising surprises of my life. Tom and I met while backpacking in Thailand and traveled together for some time. We were both on rather tight budgets, but by the end of my 5-week tenure in SE Asia, I was ready for a lavish meal. In Bangkok, that meant a large air-conditioned room with functioning western toilets in the restrooms. Oh, and unlimited foie gras, lobster, and wine pairings. It was delicious and extravagant, but definitely nothing near the refinement Tom later treated me to.
I recently finished my first year of law school and decided to treat myself to a European vacation (I'm a lucky one, I know). Tom met me in London and showed me around his lovely hometown. I've been to London several times before, but he was able to take me away from tourist destinations and into locals only spots - best tour guide ever. On our last night there, He told me he wanted to take me on a nice meal. Tom's a tricksy one though. He tried to keep my aspirations for the dinner low thoughout the day; constantly telling me not to get my hopes up and that I shouldn't dress up too much. Gordon Ramsay's flagship restaurant is very small and discrete, holding only 45 diners per seating. It's easy to pass over thinking it nothing more than an unmarked shop window.
But decadent delights lie within. Gordon Ramsay is not the most likable figure, in fact his PR team hopes you hate him, but secretly and begrudgingly respect him. He's an amazing chef. He comes in third place for the most Michelin stars held by a single chef in the history of the guide - with 9, to be exact. Three belong to his crown jewel: Gordon Ramsay Restaurant. It's doubtful that I'll ever have the opportunity to enjoy such a feast again, but I'll savor this one for a lifetime. A three Michelin star tasting menu topped my bucket list, so now I can rest easy knowing I have now eaten multiple sticks of artisanal butter crafted by a worldclass chef in a single night. Love.
So let's start with the butter: There was a goat's butter with flaked sea salt and some other delicious hand churned butter with a smoked salt gracing the table. A server comes around with an enormous jewelry box full of fresh baked breads for diners to choose from. I believe there was a honey butter, olive, raisin/nut, and baguette. I was still stunned into silence at this point so I can't remember exactly.
Tom spared no expense and insisted on the menu prestige + wine pairings for the both of us. I got a few seasonal items so we wouldn't have exactly the same meal. The multiple amuse bouches were left largely unphotographed, but let me assure you the crab cornell with avocado creme won the prize. The others included a potato crisp filled with some sort of parm mixture and sage and a fried, lollipopped frog's leg in a garlic scape soup. That's right, anything can become a verb with the judicious use of "ed".
Gordon's most famous dishes are featured on his prestige menu. It's perfectly balanced - you leave full and happy but not groning and in physical pain. Yes, I will eat until the point of pain. See this clip from Louis C.K for more details (start at 0:50 and end around minute 4; restart around 6:15 for his epic treaties on the cinnabun demographic): Louis C.K. on eating (not for the faint of heart).
I had some items off of the seasonal menu and specials as well:
Tom and I both had Pressed Foie Gras with Maderia jelly, smoked duck, rhubarb and walnut crumble served alongside a lightly toasted Texas sized slice of Brioche. Brought back memories of our inflated bellies and painful last meal in Bangkok.
Ravioli of Lobster, Langoustine, and Salmon with tomato chutney, vinagrette.
Fillet of turbot with braised baby gem lettuce and cep sauce. So good, and the tiny lettuce leaf was surprisingly the most memorable and integral component.
cannon of cornish lamb with confit shoulder, ratatouille and thyme jus
Roasted pigeon from Bresse with grilled polenta, smoked pork belly and date sauce - best dish of the meal, though it closely competes with the Scallop dish.
Roasted loin of monkfish with chorizo cous cous, baby squid, artichoke and spiced tomato jus
Pan fried sea scallops from the Isle of Skye with leek and pancetta ballottine sage gnocchi and caper buerre noisette - I still think about this dish at least once a day and it's been almost a month.
CHEESE TROLLEY - need I say more.
That's right. You pick five (5!) of these cheeses - obviously I went for the runny one that has to be dammed up with bricks in the front. Served with house made crackers and fruit accouterments. I'm a little obsessed.
See that in the upper left? That's a creme brulee with fresh granny smith apple juice.
pineapple soup with toasted coconut and rum. I usually hate coconut but this made me change my mind.
bitter chocolate and hazelnut cylinder with ginger mousse and black currant granite
Dark chocolate truffles gilded with edible silver and jasmine tea.
Strawberry bon-bon like ice cream spheres kept cold by dry ice. Served alongside house made turkish delights. Terrible photo quality, epic flavor.
Needless to say. This was a very happy time in my life. If I were ever motivated by money, it would purely be to repeat this experience. 18 Different dishes. One night. I hope to bring this to all of you too someday. Soon to come: Thomas Keller weekend. An entire weekend of dishes made from the Ad Hoc and French Laundry cookbooks.
Really though, it was one of the best, most surprising surprises of my life. Tom and I met while backpacking in Thailand and traveled together for some time. We were both on rather tight budgets, but by the end of my 5-week tenure in SE Asia, I was ready for a lavish meal. In Bangkok, that meant a large air-conditioned room with functioning western toilets in the restrooms. Oh, and unlimited foie gras, lobster, and wine pairings. It was delicious and extravagant, but definitely nothing near the refinement Tom later treated me to.
I recently finished my first year of law school and decided to treat myself to a European vacation (I'm a lucky one, I know). Tom met me in London and showed me around his lovely hometown. I've been to London several times before, but he was able to take me away from tourist destinations and into locals only spots - best tour guide ever. On our last night there, He told me he wanted to take me on a nice meal. Tom's a tricksy one though. He tried to keep my aspirations for the dinner low thoughout the day; constantly telling me not to get my hopes up and that I shouldn't dress up too much. Gordon Ramsay's flagship restaurant is very small and discrete, holding only 45 diners per seating. It's easy to pass over thinking it nothing more than an unmarked shop window.
But decadent delights lie within. Gordon Ramsay is not the most likable figure, in fact his PR team hopes you hate him, but secretly and begrudgingly respect him. He's an amazing chef. He comes in third place for the most Michelin stars held by a single chef in the history of the guide - with 9, to be exact. Three belong to his crown jewel: Gordon Ramsay Restaurant. It's doubtful that I'll ever have the opportunity to enjoy such a feast again, but I'll savor this one for a lifetime. A three Michelin star tasting menu topped my bucket list, so now I can rest easy knowing I have now eaten multiple sticks of artisanal butter crafted by a worldclass chef in a single night. Love.
So let's start with the butter: There was a goat's butter with flaked sea salt and some other delicious hand churned butter with a smoked salt gracing the table. A server comes around with an enormous jewelry box full of fresh baked breads for diners to choose from. I believe there was a honey butter, olive, raisin/nut, and baguette. I was still stunned into silence at this point so I can't remember exactly.
(Sorry about the iPhone photos, it was all I had at the time)
Tom spared no expense and insisted on the menu prestige + wine pairings for the both of us. I got a few seasonal items so we wouldn't have exactly the same meal. The multiple amuse bouches were left largely unphotographed, but let me assure you the crab cornell with avocado creme won the prize. The others included a potato crisp filled with some sort of parm mixture and sage and a fried, lollipopped frog's leg in a garlic scape soup. That's right, anything can become a verb with the judicious use of "ed".
Gordon's most famous dishes are featured on his prestige menu. It's perfectly balanced - you leave full and happy but not groning and in physical pain. Yes, I will eat until the point of pain. See this clip from Louis C.K for more details (start at 0:50 and end around minute 4; restart around 6:15 for his epic treaties on the cinnabun demographic): Louis C.K. on eating (not for the faint of heart).
I had some items off of the seasonal menu and specials as well:
Tom and I both had Pressed Foie Gras with Maderia jelly, smoked duck, rhubarb and walnut crumble served alongside a lightly toasted Texas sized slice of Brioche. Brought back memories of our inflated bellies and painful last meal in Bangkok.
Ravioli of Lobster, Langoustine, and Salmon with tomato chutney, vinagrette.
Fillet of turbot with braised baby gem lettuce and cep sauce. So good, and the tiny lettuce leaf was surprisingly the most memorable and integral component.
cannon of cornish lamb with confit shoulder, ratatouille and thyme jus
Roasted pigeon from Bresse with grilled polenta, smoked pork belly and date sauce - best dish of the meal, though it closely competes with the Scallop dish.
Roasted loin of monkfish with chorizo cous cous, baby squid, artichoke and spiced tomato jus
Pan fried sea scallops from the Isle of Skye with leek and pancetta ballottine sage gnocchi and caper buerre noisette - I still think about this dish at least once a day and it's been almost a month.
CHEESE TROLLEY - need I say more.
That's right. You pick five (5!) of these cheeses - obviously I went for the runny one that has to be dammed up with bricks in the front. Served with house made crackers and fruit accouterments. I'm a little obsessed.
See that in the upper left? That's a creme brulee with fresh granny smith apple juice.
pineapple soup with toasted coconut and rum. I usually hate coconut but this made me change my mind.
bitter chocolate and hazelnut cylinder with ginger mousse and black currant granite
Dark chocolate truffles gilded with edible silver and jasmine tea.
Strawberry bon-bon like ice cream spheres kept cold by dry ice. Served alongside house made turkish delights. Terrible photo quality, epic flavor.
Needless to say. This was a very happy time in my life. If I were ever motivated by money, it would purely be to repeat this experience. 18 Different dishes. One night. I hope to bring this to all of you too someday. Soon to come: Thomas Keller weekend. An entire weekend of dishes made from the Ad Hoc and French Laundry cookbooks.
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